If you are interested in learning how to needle tat, check out my book on Amazon. It makes a great gift for friends and family.
Bracelet
© 2014 Jennifer Williams
A big thank you to Jennifer Williams for granting permission to publish her lovely Bracelet pattern. Her site is Cariad-Tatting.
This pattern is for a bracelet which can also be made into a bookmark by omitting the beads and the bracelet fastening, and adding a tassel at one end. The first row consists of ordinary rings and lock chains. The lock chains at the ‘ends’ are shorter than the ones for the length of the bracelet. The first row is worked as one long strip and not joined until working row 2. It is important that the lock chains are worked with care because they all (except the ones at the ends) need to be the same size.
Materials and equipment:
The instructions are for a bracelet measuring approximately 7 ½ inches (19 cm) plus the fastening. Size 20 thread, a bracelet fastening, 128 size 11 beads, a fine 0 4 crochet hook (for adding the beads), a safety pin (or paper clip) and the usual tatting equipment.
Abbreviations:
R. = ring, p = picot, cl = close ring, RW = reverse work, CH. = chain, LC. = lock chain (turn the first half of the stitch but not the second half) Dp = downward picot (work 3 second half stitches, leave the picot space, then work 3 first half stitches), sj = shuttle join.
Row 1
Wind about 6 metres on your shuttle. Do not cut.
*R. 4, p, 4, p, 4, p, 4, cl, RW.
LC 8, RW**
Repeat from * to ** 9 more times then
R. 4, p, 4, p, 4, p, 4, cl, RW
LC. 4, RW
R. 4, p, 4, p, 4, p, 4, cl, RW
LC. 4, RW#
Repeat from * to #.
Cut but do not tie yet (see the overview
in the introduction at the top of the page
and the instructions on the next page).
Row 2
Wind about 6 metres on your shuttle. Do not cut
Work a shuttle join to the second picot on the
second from last ring that you worked on row ‘1’.
*CH. 4, using your fine crochet hook make a
loop in the ball thread and add 5 beads
To this loop. Hold the beads in place
using the safety pin, adjust the threads
to bring the ‘beaded picot’ up close
to the last double stitch, chain 2, RW
R. 6, + to the same ring, 2, dp, 2, + to the
first picot on the adjacent ring taking
care not to twist the lock chain, 6, cl, RW
CH. 2, carefully remove the safety pin form
the end of the ‘beaded picot’ on the
previous chain and + to the loop left
by the safety pin, 4, sj to the second
picot on the same ring as the last join,
Repeat from * 9 more times
The first end
CH. 6, make a loop in the ball thread and
add 7 beads then hold in place with
a safety pin, 3, RW
R. 6, + to the same ring as the last sj,,
2, dp, 2, + to the first picot on the
adjacent ring taking care not to twist
the lock chain, 6, cl, RW
CH. 3, remove the safety pin from the beaded
picot and + to the loop left by it, 8, + to the
bracelet fastening, 1, sj to the same ring on
row ‘1’, 1, + to the bracelet fastening again,
8, make a loop in the ball thread and add
7 beads then hold in place with a safety pin, 3, RW
R. 6, + to the same ring as the last sj,
2, dp, 2, + to the first picot on the
adjacent ring taking care not to twist
the lock chain, 6, cl, RW
Before working the second side of row ‘2’ weave the rings and lock chains of row ‘1’ between the ones that are already held in place by the first part of row ‘2’.
NB look at the diagram carefully and follow the path indicated by the arrows. Take care that you don’t go through each lock chain the same way because this will make the bracelet twist.
Work the second side of the bracelet the same as the first side then cut and tie the ends from row ‘1’ and row ‘2’, and secure the ends.
Here is one of my patterns. Enjoy! (Sorry no patterns are in my book.)
Hearts and Diamonds
© 2016 Laura Evans
Supplies:
Tatting thread (size 20)
Tatting needle (size 7)
Crochet hook (size 10)
Needle threader
Scissors (small embroidery)
Picot gauge: 1/4″, <1/8″
All picots = 1/4″ except where noted as VSP
VSP = little less than 1/8″
Abbreviations
Ch: chain
Cl: close
DNRW: do not reverse work
J: join
P: picot
RODS: Reverse order of double stitch
RW: Reversw Work
R: Ring
Rtt: Rotate Work (as a bicycle wheel spins)
TW: Turn work (as if turning a page in a book)
VSP: Very small picot (little less than 1/8″)
Finished Size:
Height: 1″
Length: 7″
Add thread if you wish it to be longer.
Needle Thread = 45″
Tail end = 20″
Loop = 25″
Pattern:
R: 5 ds, p, 5 ds, p, 5 ds, p, 5 ds. Cl. TW.
Ch (RODS): 5 ds, p, 4 ds, p, 4, ds, p, 4 ds, p, 5 ds. Cl. DNRW.
*Ch (RODS): p (j to center p. of previous R), 5 ds. Cl. TW.
R: 6 ds, p, 6 ds. Cl. RW.
Ch (RODS): 5 ds. Cl. DNRW.
p (VSP mock picot use lock stitch), 5 ds, p (j to last p of previous Ch),
4 ds, p, 4, ds, p, 4 ds, p, 5 ds. Cl. RW.
R: 5 ds, p, 5 ds, p (j to MP previous Ch), 5 ds, p, 5 ds, Cl. Rtt. [End Here]
R: 5 ds, p (join to last p of previous R), 5 ds, p, 5 ds, p, 5 ds. Cl. Rtt.
R: 5 ds, p (j to last p of previous R), 5 ds, p, 5 ds, p, 5 ds. Cl. RW
Ch (RODS): 5 ds, p (join to last p of previous Ch), 4 ds, p, 4 ds, p, 4 ds, p, 5 ds. Cl. Rtt.*
Repeat from * to * for desired length.
To finish the last section, tat until you reach [End Here]. This creates a final ring.
Cut and tie tail ends.
Hearts and Diamonds Diagram
Start at “A”
First repeat at “C1”
Josephine Knot Bookmark
by Linda Davies © 2011
Permission by Linda Davies
Materials:
Tatting cotton size 20 in red and white or two colours of your choice, two shuttles.
Extra instructions: jk – Josephine knot, DNRW – do not reverse work, SS – switch shuttles
Method:
Fill shuttle 1 with white and shuttle 2 with red. Tie threads together using a weaver’s knot or start your tatting using whichever method of hiding ends you prefer.
For those tatters who prefer to do Front side/Back side tatting the instructions are in italics.
With shuttle 1 (white)
R1 5 – 5 – 5 – 5 cl RW
Ch1 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 RW
R2 5 + (to last p of previous R) 5 – 5 – 5 cl RW
Rep Ch1 and R2 until 15 rings and 14 chains have been made
Ch15 2 – 2 RW
R16 As R2, DNRW
R17 5 + (to last p of R16) 7 – 7 – 5 cl, DNRW
R18 As R2, RW
Ch16 2 + (to p of Ch15) 2 RW
R19 As R2, RW
Ch17 2 – 2 + (to centre p of Ch14) 2 – 2 RW
Continue in the same way all down the second side, joining each ring and each chain. After R33 DNRW and SS
Ch31 2 – 2 – 2 – 2, j to base of R1
Ch32 2 – 2 – 2 jk of 10 2nd half stitches cl, 2 – 2 – 2 j to 1st p of R1
Ch33 2 – 2 – 2 jk of 10 2nd half stitches cl, 2 – 2 – 2 j to same j between
R1 and R2.
Rep last chain, joining between rings until you have joined between R16 and R17
Ch49 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 jk of 10 2nd half stitches cl, 2 – 2 – 2 -2 j between R17 and R18
Rep Ch33 to complete the second side, ending with a join to the base of R33.
Tie ends and either sew in ends to neaten or dab with PVA glue.
Cross Bookmark
by Linda S. Davies © 2009
Permission by Linda Davis
Materials:
Shuttle, size 20 cotton (colour/s of your choice)
Paper clip
PVA craft glue
Abbreviations
ch: chain
cl: close
DNRW: do not reverse work
j or +: join
p or – : picot
R: ring
Rep: repeat
RW: reverse work
Method:
Centre medallion.
Wind shuttle and do no cut from ball (unless you are
using two colours).
R1: 5 – 5 – 5 – 5, cl
R2: 5 + (join to last p on R1) 5 – 5 – 5, cl RW
Ch1: 2 – 2, RW
Rep Rings 1 and 2 and Chain1, 3 more times so that there are 8 rings in all and 4 chains, joining the last picot on R8 to the first picot on R1 and chain 4 to the starting point.
Tie ends and cut close to knot, dab knot with PVA glue.
Arms:
Wind shuttle and do no cut from ball (unless you are using two colours).
*R1 5 + (join to free picot on any ring of centre medallion) 5 – 5 – 5, cl RW
Ch1 2 – 2 – 2 – 2, RW
R2 5 + (join to last p of R1) 5 – 5 – 5, cl RW
Ch2 2 – 2 – 2 – 2, RW
R3 5 + (join to last p of R1) 5 – 5 – 5, cl RW
Ch3 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2, lock join with shuttle thread
to last picot of R3
Ch4 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2, place paper clip over
shuttle thread. This keeps a space for you to join to
with the next ring.
Ch5 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2, RW
R4 5, carefully remove the paperclip and join to the
space it has just made, 5 + (join to p of R3) 5 – 5, cl
RW
Ch6 2 – 2 – 2 – 2, RW
R5 5 + (join to last picot of R4) 5 + (J to R2) 5 – 5,
cl RW
Ch7 2 – 2 – 2 – 2, RW
R6 5 + (join to last picot of R5) 5 + (J to R1) 5 +
(join to next p of centre medallion) 5, DNRW
Ch8 2 – 2 – 2 – 2, DNRW**
Rep from * to ** two more times and then for the long
arm work in exactly the same way, but do not tat the
turning chains (using the paper clip) until 8 rings have
been made. Join the last chain to the starting point.
Tie ends and cut close to knot, dab knot with PVA
glue.
Tassel:
Wind shuttle and do not cut from ball. Join with the
shuttle thread to the centre picot of the centre chain of
the centre short arm.
Work a chain of alternating 5 ds with 5 unflipped ds for
about 4 inches. Cut the threads approx 4 inches from
the tatting.
Make a tassel by winding the thread over a card
approx 1.5 inches wide. Join the tassel to the chain using the threads extending from the tatting.
Coronet Doily – Small
© Linda S. Davies 2010
Permission by Linda Davies
Materials:
Tatting cotton size 70
2 shuttles
Finished size approximately 4.5 inches.
I have made the centre of this doily slightly different than the large version as I thought it might look too “busy”.
Abbreviations
Ring (R)
Split ring (SR)
Centre ring (CR)
Split chain (SC)
Picot (p or – )
Join (j or +)
Reverse work (RW)
Do not reverse work (DNRW)
Switch shuttles (SS)
Repeat (Rep)
Continuous thread method (CTM)
Close ring (cl)
Picture (Pic)
Method
Fill both shuttles by the CTM.
CR: 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 cl, DNRW.
Round 1
R1: Leave small space to depth of picots in centre ring
SR 3/3 cl, RW
Ch1: 5 – 5 RW
R2: 3 + (j to next free p on CR) 3 cl, RW
Ch2: 5 – 5 RW
Rep all round making the last chain a split chain as follows
Ch8: 5/5 DNRW
Round 2
R1: Leave small space to dept of picot
SR 3/ 3 cl, RW
Ch1: 5 – 5 – 5 RW
R2: 3 + (j to next free p on ch of Round 1) 3 cl, RW
Ch2: 5 – 5 – 5 RW
Rep all round making the last chain a split chain as follows
Ch8: 5 – 5/5 – 5 DNRW
Round 3
Ch1: 7 – 7 + (j to next free p on ch of Round 2) 7 – 7
Rep all round making last part of ch a split chain.
Round 4
R1: SR, leave space ofr depth of a p, 5 – 3/5 – 3 DNRW (this is the centre ring of a three ring
clover. The first ring of the clover will be done as the last ring of the round)
R2: 3 + (j to adjacent p of SR) 5 – 8 cl, RW
Ch1: 9 – 9 RW
R3: 8 + (j to last p of R2) 5 – 3 cl, DNRW
R4: 3 + (j to last p of R3) 5 + (j to next free p on round 3) 5 – 3 cl, DNRW
R5: 3 + (j to last p of R4) 5 – 8 cl, RW
Ch2: 9 – 9 RW
Rep all round until the 16th chain has been made. Now make the first ring to the first clover as follows:
R48: 8 + (j to last p of R47) 5 + (j to free p of R1) 3 cl. J with shuttle thread to base of R2 to
anchor chain 16. DNRW
Round 5
R1: SR 9/9 cl, RW
Ch1: 5 – 5 – 5 – 5 RW
R2: 9 + (j to base of next 3 ring clover) 9 cl, RW
Rep all round making the last chain a split chain as follows
Ch16: 5 – 5 – 5/5 DNRW
Round 6
(The diamond points of the coronet are worked in an anti-clockwise direction)
Ch1: 5 + (j to first p on next chain of Round 5) 5 – 5 DNRW and SS
R1: 4 – 4 – 4 – 4 – 4 – 4 cl, DNRW and SS
Ch2: 5 – 5 + (miss one p and j to next p on same chain of Round 5) 5 + (j to first p on next chain of Round 5)
5 – 5, RW
R2: 10 – 7 – 3 cl, DNRW
R3: 3 + (j to last p of R2) 7 + (j to next p on same chain of Round 9 [see pic 3]) 7 – 3 cl, DNRW
R4: 3 + (j to last p of R3) 7 – 10 cl, RW [pic 4]
Ch3: 7 – 7, RW [pic 5]
R5: 10 + (j to last p on R4) 7 – 3 cl, DNRW
R6: 3 + (j to last p on R5) 7 – 7 – 3 cl, DNRW
R7: 3 + (j to last p on R6) 7 – 10 cl, RW
Ch4: 7 – 7 RW
R8: 10 + (j to last p on R7) 7 – 3 cl, DNRW
R9: 3 + (j to last p of R8) 7 – 7 – 3 cl, DNRW
R10: 3 + (j to last p of R9) 7 – 10 cl, RW
Ch5: 7 – 7, RW
R11: 10 + (j to last p on R10) 7 – 3 cl, DNRW
R12: 3 + (j to last p on R11) 7 + (j to 4th p on R1) 7 – 3 cl, DNRW
R13: 3 + (j to last p on R12) 7 + (j to 1st p on R2) 10 cl, RW
Ch6: 7 – 7 (j with shuttle thread to base of first 3 ring clover)
Ch7: 5 – 5 + (j to next p on same chain of Round 5)
Rep from Ch 1 all round, joining centre ring of 2nd clover of last diamond coronet to 2nd p of R1
and joining last chain to start of Round 6.
Tatted Clover Snowflake
Linda Davies © 2016
Permission by Linda Davies
Materials:
Tatting cotton size 20
3 mm Beads 36 for each snowflake
Shuttle
Method:
Some beads are inserted using my method of a needle threader, instructions for which can be found in this video:
http://toptattyhead.blogspot.co.uk/2008/03/tatting-demonstration-beading-non_14.html
Thread 6 beads onto thread and the wind shuttle and do not cut from ball. Push the beads onto
the shuttle out of the way for the first ring.
Round 1
Clover 1
R1: 6 – 4 – 2 cl.
R2: Draw up all 6 beads and place onto thread around hand. 2 + 6 place all six beads 6 – 2. Cl.
I advise when making the first ds after placing the beads it is done a little loosely to give a little slack among the beads. This makes it easier to join between the beads later.
R3: 2 + 4 – 6 cl. RW.
Ch1: Join bead onto ball thread with needle threader 5 – 5 – 5. RW.
Clover 2
R4: 6 + 4 – 2 cl.
R5: 2 + 6 + (j bet the next 2 beads in the centre) 6 – 2 cl.
R6: 2 + 4 – 6. cl. RW.
Ch2: As Ch1.
Repeat Clover 2 and Ch2 until 6 clovers and chains have been made joining last ring of Clover 6
to first ring of Clover 1 and joining Chain 6 to base of Clover 1.
Tie and trim ends, dab knot with fabric glue.
Round 2
All the beads on this round have been placed with a needle threader.
Wind shuttle and do not cut from ball.
Clover 1
R1: 6 – 4 – 2 cl.
R2: 2 + 6 bead 6 – 2 cl.
R3: 2 + 4 -6 cl. RW.
Ch1: Place bead 5 + (j to any free p. of Round 1) 5, RW.
Clover 2
R4: 6 + 4 – 2 cl.
R5: 2 + 6 bead 6 – 2 cl.
R6: 2 + 4 – 6 cl. RW.
Ch2: Place bead 5 + (j to next free p. of Round 1) 5, RW.
Rep Clover 2 and Ch2 all round joining last ring of clover 12 to first ring of Clover 1 and joining Ch12 to the base of Clover 1.
Tie and trim ends, dab knot with fabric glue.
Add a hanging loop and spray with hair spray to stiffen if required.
Split Chain Doily
© 2012 Linda Davies
Permission by Linda Davies
Materials:
One 20g ball of tatting Cotton size 20, two tatting shuttles
Method:
Wind both shuttles with the CTM.
Note: To avoid split chain and split rings, use the Cut and Tie method for each round.
Abbreviations:
Between (bet)
Chain (Ch)
Close (Cl)
Cut and Tie (C&T)
Do Not Reverse Work (DNRW)
Join (j or +)
Lock Join (lj)
Picot (p or -)
Repeat (Rep)
Reverse Work (RW)
Ring (R)
Space (Sp)
Split Chain (S/C or / )
Split Ring (S/R or / )
Round 1:
R1: 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2, cl. RW.
Ch1: 5 – 5 – 5, RW.
R2: 2 – 2 + (j to 4th p of R1) 2 – 2 – 2 – 2, cl, RW.
Ch2: 5 – 5 – 5, RW.
R3: 2 – 2 + (j to 4th p. of R2) 2 – 2 – 2 – 2, cl. RW.
Ch2: 5 – 5 – 5, RW.
R4: 2 – 2 + (j to 4th p of R3) 2 – 2 – 2 – 2, cl. RW.
Ch2: 5 – 5 – 5, RW.
R5: 2 – 2 + (j to 4th p of R4) 2 – 2 – 2 – 2, cl. RW.
Ch2: 5 – 5 – 5, RW.
R6: 2 – 2 + (j to 4th p of R5) 2 – 2 + (j to 2nd p of R1) 2 – 2, cl, RW.
Ch 6: S/C 5 – 5 / 5, RW. (Or Ch 5 – 5 – 5, RW.*)
*Note: on all subsequent rounds to avoid split chain and split rings,
use the Cut and Tie method for each round.
Round 2
R1: S/R 2 – 2 – 2 / 2 – 2 – 2, cl. RW.
Ch1: 5 – 5, RW.
R2: 2 – 2 – 2 + (j to next free p on round 1) 2 – 2 – 2, cl. RW.
Rep Ch 1 and R2 all the way round making the last chain as follows:
Ch 12: S/C 5/5, RW.
Round 3
R1: S/R 2 – 2 – 2 / 2 – 2 – 2, cl. RW.
Ch1: 5 – 5 – 5, RW.
R2: 2 – 2 – 2 + (j to next free p on round 2) 2 – 2 – 2, cl. RW.
Rep Ch 1 and R2 all the way round making the last chain as follows:
Ch 12: S/C 5 – 5/ 5, RW.
Round 4
R1: S/R 2 – 2 – 2 / 2 – 2 – 2, cl. RW.
Ch1: 7 – 7, RW.
R2: 2 – 2 – 2 + (j to next free p on round 3) 2 – 2 – 2 cl, RW.
Rep Ch1 and R2 all the way round making the last chain as follows:
Ch24: S/C 7 / 7, DNRW.
Round 5
Ch1: 9 – 9, j to next free p on round 4.
Rep Ch1 all round, making the last chain as follows:
Ch24: S/C 9 / 9, DNRW.
Round 6
Ch1: 7 – 7 – 7 – 7, j to next free p on round 5.
Rep Ch 1 all round, making the last chain as follows:
Ch24: S/C 7 – 7 – 7 / 7, DNRW.
Round 7
R1: S/R 3 + (j to first p of next ch on round 6) 3 – 3 / 3 – 3 cl, DNRW.
Ch1: 7, RW.
R2: 3 – 3 – 3 – 3 – 3, cl, RW.
Ch2: 7, DNRW.
R3: 3 – 3 + (miss one p and j to next p of same ch on round 6)
3 + (j to first p of next ch on round 6) 3 – 3, cl. DNRW.
Ch3: 7, RW.
Rep from R2 all round and join last ch to base of R1. DNRW.
Round 8
Ch1: 9 + (lj to 2nd p of forward facing R on round 7) 5 – 5 + (lj to next p of same
r on round 7) 9, (lj to tiny sp bet next two chs on round 7).
Rep all round joining last chain to starting point of round 8.
Cut and tie, sew ends to neaten.
Round 9
Wind two shuttles with CTM and lj to any free p on round 8.
Ch1: 9 – 9, lj to next free p on round 8.
Rep Ch1 all round making last chaing as follows:
Ch 24: S/C 9 / 9, DNRW.
Round 10
Ch 1: 7 – 7 -7, j to next free p on round 9.
Rep Ch1 all round making last chain as follows:
Ch24: 7 – 7 / 7, DNRW.
Round 11
Ch 1: 7 – 7 – 7 – 7, j to next free p on round 10.
Rep Ch1 all round, making the last chain as follows:
Ch 48: S/C 7 – 7 -7 / 7, RW.
Round 12
R1: S/R 3 + (j to first p of next ch on round 11) 3 – 3 / 3 – 3, cl. DNRW.
Ch1: 7, RW.
R2: 3 – 3 – 3 – 3 – 3, cl. RW.
Ch2: 7, DNRW.
R3: 3 – 3 + (miss one p and j to next p of same ch on round 11) 3 +
(j to first p of next ch on round 11) 3 – 3, cl. DNRW.
Ch3: 7, RW.
Rep from R2 all round and join last ch to base of R1. DNRW.
Round 13
Ch1: 9 + (lj to 2nd p of forward facing r on round 12) 5 – 5 + (lj to next p of
same r on round 12) 9, (lj to tiny sp bet next two chs on round 12).
Rep all round joining last chain to starting point of round 13.
Cut and tie, sew ends to neaten.
Heart by Linda Davies
(c) April 2009
Permission by Linda Davies
Materials:
I used size 20 cotton which gave a measurement of
2½ inches wide by 2¼ inches deep, but you could use
any thread you prefer.
One shuttle.
Method:
Wind shuttle with thread and do not cut from ball.
Ring 1 starts at arrow.
Ring 1 3 – 3 – 3 – 3 – 3 – 3 cl, RW.
Ch 1 5, RW
Ring 2 5 + (to last p of ring 1) 3 – 3 cl, RW
Ring 3 3 + (to last p of ring 2) 5 – 5 – 3 cl, RW
Ring 4 3 + (to last p of ring 3) 3 – 5 cl, RW
This makes a 3 ring clover.
Ch 2 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2, RW
Rep rings 2, 3 and 4 joining each ring to the prev ring
and the centre rings of each clover.
Ch 3 as ch 2
Rep rings 2, 3 and 4 joining each ring to the prev ring
and the centre rings of each clover.
Ch 4 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2, RW
Ring 11 3 + (to last p of ring 10) 3 – 3 – 3 cl, RW
Ch 5 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2, RW
Rings 12, 13, 14, 15, as Ring 11
Chains 6, 7, 8, 2 – 2 – 2 – 2, RW
Ch 9 5, work first half of ds without flipping the
stitch (this makes the chain turn a corner) 5, RW
Ring 16 3 + (to last p of ring 15) 3 + (to next p of
same ring) 3 – 3 cl, RW
Complete the second side to mirror the first following
the diagram. Join the last ring to the first p of the starting
ring and join the last chain to the starting point.
Four Square Tatted Doily
by Linda S. Davies © 2013
Permission by Linda Davies
Materials:
I used size 20 cotton which gave a measurement of
2½ inches wide by 2¼ inches deep, but you could use
any thread you prefer.
One shuttle.
Method:
Wind shuttle with thread and do not cut from ball.
Ring 1 3 – 3 – 3 – 3 – 3 – 3 cl, RW.
Ch 1 5, RW
Ring 2 5 + (to last p of ring 1) 3 – 3 cl, RW
Ring 3 3 + (to last p of ring 2) 5 – 5 – 3 cl, RW
Ring 4 3 + (to last p of ring 3) 3 – 5 cl, RW
This makes a 3 ring clover.
Ch 2 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2, RW
Rep rings 2, 3 and 4 joining each ring to the prev ring
and the centre rings of each clover.
Ch 3 as ch 2
Rep rings 2, 3 and 4 joining each ring to the prev ring
and the centre rings of each clover.
Ch 4 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2, RW
Ring 11 3 + (to last p of ring 10) 3 – 3 – 3 cl, RW
Ch 5 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2, RW
Rings 12, 13, 14, 15, as Ring 11
Chains 6, 7, 8, 2 – 2 – 2 – 2, RW
Ch 9 5, work first half of ds without flipping the
stitch (this makes the chain turn a corner) 5, RW
Ring 16 3 + (to last p of ring 15) 3 + (to next p of
same ring) 3 – 3 cl, RW
Complete the second side to mirror the first following
the diagram. Join the last ring to the first p of the starting
ring and join the last chain to the starting point.
Materials:
Pearle cottton Size 12
2 Shuttles
Abbreviations:
(R) Ring
(Ch) Chain
(cl) Close (ring)
(CTM) Continuous Thread Method
(j) Join
(lj) Lock Join
(lp) Long Picot
(p or -) Picot
(Rep) Repeat
(RW) Reverse Work
(SC) Split Chain
(SR) Split Ring
Please note that I work my split chains from the same side as the first half of the split chain.
If you turn your work round to make your split chain, you will have to adjust the instruction to RW after the split chain.
For those tatters who are unable to work split chains and split rings this pattern can still be done by ending each row by joining to the starting point of that row and then cutting, tying and sewing the ends in.
Method:
Wind both shuttles CTM
Row 1
R1: 7 lp 7 cl, RW.
*Ch1: 7 – 7, RW.
R2: 7 +(to lp of R1) 7 cl. RW.
Rep from * until 7 chains and 8 rings have been made
Ch8 SC 7 / 7, RW.
Row 2
R1 SR 7 / 7 cl, RW
Ch1 4 – 4 – 4 – 4, RW
R2 7 + (to next p on Row 1) 7 cl., RW
Ch2 4 – 4 – 4 – 4, RW
R3 7 + (to next p on Row 1) 7 cl, RW
Ch3 4 – 4 – 4 – 4 – 4 – 4, RW
R4 7 + (to same p as R3) 7 cl, RW
Ch4 4 – 4 – 4 – 4, RW
R5 7 + (to next p on Row ) 7 cl, RW
Ch5 4 – 4 – 4 – 4, RW
R6 7 + (to next p on Row 1) 7 cl, RW
Ch6 4 – 4 – 4 – 4 – 4 – 4, RW
R7 7 + (to same p as R3) 7 cl, RW
Continue round the motif in the same way making the last ring (R12) join to the same picot as R1
Ch12 4 – 4 – 4 / 4 – 4 – 4, RW
Row 3
R1 SR 7 / 7 cl, RW
*Ch1 5 – 5 lj to next free p of same ch on Row 2
Ch2 5 – 5 lj to centre p of next ch on Row 2
Ch3 7 – 7 lj to centre p of next ch on Row 2
Ch 4 5 – 5 lj to 2nd p of next ch on Row 2
Ch 5 5 – 5, RW
R2 7 + (j to next p of same ch on Row 2) 7 cl, RW
Rep from * all around motif joining thread, after the last chain, to base of R1.
Cut, tie and sew in ends.
Joining Motifs Together:
Make one complete motif.
Make next motif to end of Row 2
Row 3
Make as motif 1 to R2
With chain thread j to small space at base of next corner ring of motif 1.
Finish motif 2 following pattern for motif 1.
Join the third motif in the same way as motif 2.
Join the fourth motif on two sides.
Edging:
Wind shuttle and do not cut from ball.
R1 7 + (j to first free p to tthe left of any side) 7 cl, RW
Ch1 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2, RW
R2 7 + ( j to next free p) 7 cl, RW
Rep all round making the corner chains with 11 picots instead of 7.
Celtic Motif
by Linda Davies © 2014
Permission by Linda Davies
Materials:
Cotton Thread size 20: 1 main color and 1 contrasting color
2 Shuttles
8 beads for each motif (optional)
Method:
If you are using beads thread them onto the main color thread first and then fill shuttle.
Do not cut from ball. Wind 2nd shuttle with contrast color and do not cut from ball.
If you are not using beads, replace each bead in round 1 with a picot.
Round 1:
R1: Slide 1 bead into the ring around your fingers and tat:
3 – 3, place bead (or make picot) 3 – 3, cl. RW.
Ch 1: 4 – 4, RW.
R2: Slide 1 bead into the ring around your fingers and tat:
3 + (j to last p of R1) 3, place bead, 3 – 3, cl. RW.
Ch 2: 4 – 4, RW.
Rep all round until 8 rings and 8 chains have been made, joining $8 to $1 and Ch 8 to
base of R1. DNRW.
Round 2:
Ch1: (main color) 7 – 7 and leave loose at this point.
Ch2: (contrast) Join with lj to next free p on round 1 and tat:
7 – 7 and leave loose at this point.
Ch3: (main color) Bring Ch 1 over Ch2 (from back to front) and join to little space
between next 2 chains on Round 1 and then tat:
7 – 7 and leave loose at this point.
Ch4: (contrast) Bring Ch2 and Ch3 (from back to ffront) and join to next free p
on Round 1 and then tat:
7 – 7 and leave loose at this point.
Continue in this manner all around and join each color to each starting point of the round.
Finish off ends.
To join the motifs together care must be taken in getting the waving in the correct order.
Follow the picture carefully and join by two picots, with the contrasting color, on each side.
Please note: bring the main color chain forward before joining the second contrasting color chain.
Celtic Bookmark by Linda Davies
Permission by Linda Davies
Materials:
Tatting cotton size 40 in two colours
4 tatting shuttles
This pattern can be made with 2 shuttles and 2 ball threads, but it is more
difficult to prevent the threads from becoming tangled.
Method:
Fill 2 shuttles with one of the colours and 2 shuttles with the other colour.
Tie one shuttle of each colour together and the other two shuttles
together.
Sh1 R1 3 – 3 – 3 – 3 – 3 – 3 cl, RW
Sh2 Ch1 5 – 5 – 5 – 5 RW
Sh3 R2 3 – 3 + (j to 4th p of R1) 3 – 3 – 3 – 3 cl, RW
Sh4 Ch2 5 – 5 – 5 – 5 RW
Sh1 R3 3 – 3 + (making sure that you join to 4th p of R2
over the top of Ch1) 3 – 3 – 3 – 3 cl, RW
Sh2 Ch3 5 – 5 – 5 – 5 RW
Continue in this way, swapping shuttles and making sure that each chain
goes over the top of the previous one, until 19 chains and 20 rings have
been made.
Sh4 Ch20 5 – 5 – 5 – 5 – 5 – 5 – 5 – 5 RW
Sh1 R21 3 – 3 + (j to 4th p of R20) 3 – 3 – 3 – 3 cl, RW
Sh2 Ch21 As Ch20, RW
Sh3 R 22 3 – 3 – 3 + (j to 3rd p of R21) 3 – 3 – 3 cl, RW
Sh4 Ch22 5 – 5 – 5 – 5 RW
Sh1 R23 3 – 3 + (j to 4th p of R22) 3 + (j to 3rd p of R22) 3 – 3 – 3 cl, RW
Sh2 Ch23 As Ch22, RW
Continue down the second side until Ch 40 and R41 have been made.
Sh2 Ch41 5 – 5 – 5 – 5 – 5 – 5 – 5 – 5 RW
Sh3 R42 3 – 3 + (j to 4th p of R41) 3 + (j to 3rd p of R41) 3 – 3 – 3 cl, RW
Sh4 Ch42 5 – 5 – 5 – 5 – 5 – 5 – 5 – 5.
Join to base of R1 making sure that Ch42 crosses over Ch41 first.
Tie off and sew in ends.
Pom-pom Dahlias by Linda Davies
Permission by Linda Davies
Materials:
Mercerised crochet cotton no. 80 in colour of your choice
cotton size 10 in yellow or orange
fine fabric of matching colour
1 seed bead for each flower
20 gauge wire
flat topped button with shank
flexible craft glue
Instructions:
Wind shuttle and make 8 large petals thus:
Ch of 1 ds, sm p, 12 ds, 7 p sep by 2 ds, 12 ds, j to sm p,
cut and tie ends, dab glue on the knot.
Make 8 medium petals thus:
Ch of 1 ds, sm p, 10 ds, 7 p sep by 2 ds, 10 ds, j to sm p,
cut and tie ends, dab glue on the knot.
Make 8 small petals thus:
Ch of 1 ds, sm p, 8 ds, 7 p sep by 2 ds, 8 ds, j to sm p,
cut and tie ends, dab glue on the knot.
With yellow/orange make a daisy. R 1 ds, 6 ds sep by 2 ds, 1ds, cl.
Tie ends, dab glue on the knot.
To make up:
Place a thin film of glue onto the underside of any petal, stick onto the fine fabric and trim
away excess fabric when dry.
Dab a spot of glue on the pointed end of the petal and squeeze the two sides together to
make it even more pointed and the whole petal cup-shaped.
Make up all the other petals in this way.
Cut a 15cm (6”) length of wire and thread through the shank of the button. Twist the wire tightly up
against the shank until the button is firm and does not “waggle” about.
Glue the 8 larger petals evenly onto the green platform so that the points of the petals are just touching.
Glue the medium 8 petals on top and in between the larger petals also so that the points are just touching.
Repeat with the smaller petals, again in between the medium petals.
Glue the yellow/orange daisy in the centre of the flower to cover the points of the petals
Finally, glue a seed bead in the centre of the flower.
Flower Brooch by Linda S Davies ©2015
Permission by Linda Davies
Materials:
Perle cotton size 8 in main flower colour and green
Seven 3mm beads
Shuttle
Strong PVA glue
Brooch fastener
Method:
Centre Petals:
Thread 6 beads onto main flower thread and fill shuttle, do not cut from ball.
R1: Pull all 6 beads up into ring around hand.
3—3, place all 6 beads, 3—3, cl RW
Ch1: 2—2—2—2—2—2, RW
R2: 3 + (j to prev R) 3, j bet next 2 beads, 3—3, cl RW
Ch2: As Ch1
R3: As R2
Ch3: As Ch1
R4: As R2
Ch4: As Ch1
R5: As R2
Ch5: As Ch1
R6: 3 + (j to prev R) 3, j bet next 2 beads, 3 + (j to R1) 3, cl RW
Ch6: As Ch1, j to base of R1
Tie ends, dab knot with glue, trim ends close to knot.
Outer Petals:
Fill shuttle with main flower colour and do not cut from ball
Round 1:
R1: 6 — (lp) 6, cl RW
Ch: 2—2—2—2—2—2. RW
R2: 6 + (j to lp) 6, cl RW
Ch2: As Ch1
R3: As R2
Ch3: As Ch1
R4: As R2 DNRW
R5: As R1
Ch4: As Ch1
R6: As R2
Ch5: As Ch1
R7: As R2
Ch6: As Ch1
R8: As R2, RW
Join to base of R1 with shuttle thread.
Round 2:
Ch1: 2—2—2—2—2—2—2—2, lj to tiny sp bet 2 chains on round 1
Rep Ch1 all round, lj to starting point.
Round 3:
Ch1: 2—2—2—2—2—2—2—2—2—2, lj to tiny sp bet 2 chains on round 2
Rep Ch1 all round, lj to starting point.
Tie ends, dab knot with glue, trim ends close to knot.
Round 4:
Fill shuttle with green thread and do not cut from ball. Lj to tiny sp bet centre chains on round 3. I use the opposite side to the finishing knot of round 3.
Ch1: 2—2—2—2—2—2—2—2—2—2—2—2, lj to tiny sp bet next two chains on round 3
Ch2: 2—2—2—2—2—2—2—2, lj to 5th p of next ch on round 3
Ch3: 2—2—2—2—2—2—2—2, lj to same p on round 3
Ch4: 2—2—2—2—2—2—2—2, lj to tiny sp bet next two chains on round 3
Ch5: As Ch1
Ch6: As Ch1
Ch7: As Ch2
Ch8: As Ch3
Ch9: As Ch4
Ch10: As Ch1
Lj to starting point. Tie ends, dab knot with glue, trim ends close to knot.
To make up:
Glue a brooch fastener to the back of a completed set of outer petals.
When dry, glue the centre petals to the centre front of the outer petals.
Glue a single bead to the very centre of the flower.
Leave to dry completely before wearing.
Fan-tastic Project by Linda Davies
Permission by Linda Davies
Materials
Fan blank; the fan sticks measure 4½ inches overall and 2½ inches where the tatting fits. I purchased this vintage fan from an on-line auction for just a couple of pounds. I removed the old paper fan and washed the plastic part in warm soapy water. It came up beautifully! Alternatively,
you can purchase a new fan blank, or make your own using craft stick, both obtainable from good craft stores.
Fine thread; I used vintage DMC size 70, shuttle, paperclip, PVA craft glue.
Method
Finger 1
Wind shuttle and do not cut from ball.
R1 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 cl, RW
Ch1 leave a tiny space 5 – 5 RW
R2 2 + (to last p of R1) 2 – 3 – 3 – 2 – 2 cl, RW
Ch2 5 – 5 RW
R3 2 + (to last p of R2) 3 – 3 – 3 – 3 – 2 cl, RW
Ch3 5 – 5 RW
R4 3 + (to last p of R3) 3 – 3 – 3 – 3 – 3 cl, RW
Ch4 6 – 6 RW
R5 3 + (to last p of R4) 3 – 4 – 4 – 3 – 3 cl, RW
Ch5 6 – 6 RW
R6 3 + (to last p of R5) 4 – 4 – 4 – 4 – 3 cl, RW
Ch6 6 – 6 RW
R7 4 + (to last p of R6) 4 – 4 – 4 – 4 – 4 cl, RW
Ch7 7 – 7 RW
R8 4 + (to last p of R7) 4 – 5 – 5 – 4 – 4 cl, RW
Ch8 7 – 7 RW
R9 4 + (to last p of R8) 5 – 5 – 5 – 5 – 4 cl, RW
Ch9 7 – 7 RW
R10 5 + (to last p of R9) 5 – 5 – 5 – 5 – 5 cl, RW
Ch10 7 – 7 + (to 2nd last p of R10) 5 – 5, place a paperclip over the shuttle
thread snug up to last ds, 7 – 7 RW
R11 5 – 5 + (carefully remove paperclip and join to small space left) 5 + (to
next free p of R10) 5 – 5 – 5 cl, RW
Ch11 7 – 7 RW
R12 4 + (to last p of R11) 5 – 5 + (to centre p of R9) 5 – 5 – 5 cl, RW
Ch12 7 – 7 RW
R13 4 + (to last p of R12) 4 – 5 + (to centre p of R8) 5 – 4 – 4 cl, RW
Ch13 7 – 7 RW
R14 4 + (to last p of R13) 4 – 4 + (to centre p of R7) 4 – 4 – 4 cl, RW
Ch14 6 – 6 RW
R15 3 + (to last p of R14) 4 – 4 + (to centre p of R6) 4 – 4 – 3 cl, RW
Ch15 6 – 6 RW
R16 3 + (to last p of R15) 3 – 4 + (to centre p of R5) 4 – 3 – 3 cl, RW
Ch16 6 – 6 RW
R17 3 + (to last p of R16) 3 – 3 + (to centre p of R4) 3 – 3 – 3 cl, RW
Ch17 5 – 5 RW
R18 2 + (to last p of R17) 3 – 3 + (to centre p of R3) 3 – 3 – 2 cl, RW
Ch18 5 – 5 RW
R19 2 + (to last p of R18) 2 – 3 + (to centre p of R2) 3 – 2 – 2 cl, RW
Ch19 5 – 5 RW
R20 2 + (to last p of R19) 2 – 2 + (to centre p of R1) 2 – 2 – 2 cl RW
Ch20 3 + (to last p of R20 5 + (to first p of R1) 3, join to tiny space at starting point of Ch1.
Cut and tie ends, dab knot with glue.
Finger 2
R1 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 cl, RW
Ch1 Leave a tiny space, 5 + (to p of Ch19 on Fin
ger 1) 5 RW
R2 2 + (to last p of R1) 2 – 3 – 3 – 2 – 2 cl, RW
Ch2 5 + (to p of Ch18 on Finger 1) 5 RW
R3 2 + (to last p of R2) 3 – 3 – 3 – 3 – 3 cl, RW
Ch3 5 + (to p of Ch17 on Finger 1) 5 RW
Continue instructions for Finger 1 without joining any more chains of Finger 2 to Finger 1.
Make as many fingers that your fan requires, mine needed nine.
Fill-in Row
Wind shuttle and do not cut from ball.
R1 2 – 2 – 2 + (to p of Ch19 of last finger made) 2 – 2 – 2 cl, RW
Ch1 Leave tiny space, 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 RW
R2 2 – 2 – 2 + (to p of Ch18 of last finger made) 2 – 2 – 2 cl, RW
Ch2 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 RW
R3 2 – 2 – 2 + (to p of Ch17 of last finger made) 2 – 2 – 2 cl, RW
Ch3 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 RW
R4 2 – 2 – 2 + (to p of Ch16 of last finger made) 2 – 2 – 2 cl, RW
Ch4 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 RW
R5 2 – 2 – 2 + (to p of Ch15 of last finger made) 2 – 2 – 2 cl, RW
Ch5 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 RW
R6 2 – 2 – 2 + (to p of Ch14 of last finger made) 2 – 2 – 2 cl, RW
Ch6 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 RW
R7 2 – 2 – 2 + (to p of Ch13 of last finger made) 2 – 2 – 2 cl, RW
Ch7 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 RW
R8 2 – 2 – 2 + (to p of Ch12 of last finger made) 2 – 2 – 2 cl, RW
Ch8 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 RW
R9 2 – 2 – 2 + (to p of Ch11 of last finger made) 2 – 2 – 2 cl, RW
‡Ch9 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 RW
R10 2 – 2 – 2 + (to first p of Ch10 of last finger made) 2 – 2 – 2 cl, RW
Ch10 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 RW
R11 2 – 2 – 2 + (to next p of Ch10 of last finger made) 2 – 2 – 2 cl, RW
Ch11 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 RW
R12 2 – 2 – 2 + (to next p of Ch10 of last finger made) 2 – 2 – 2 cl, RW
Ch12 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 RW
R13 2 – 2 – 2 + (to p of Ch9 of last finger made) 2 – 2 – 2 cl, RW
Ch13 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 RW
R14 2 – 2 – 2 + to p of Ch8 of last finger made) 2 – 2 – 2 cl, RW
Ch14 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2, lj to Ch7 of last finger made.
Ch15 2 – 2 – 2 – 2, lj to Ch6 of last finger made.
Ch16 2 – 2 – 2 – 2, lj to Ch5 of last finger made.
Ch17 2 – 2 – 2 – 2, lj to Ch4 of last finger made.
Ch18 5, lj to same j where two fingers meet
Ch19 5, lj to Ch16 of next finger.
Ch20 2 – 2 – 2 – 2, lj to Ch15 of next finger.
Ch21 2 – 2 + (to centre p of Ch16) 2 – 2, lj to Ch14 of next finger.
Ch22 2 – 2 + (to centre p of Ch15) 2 – 2, lj to Ch13 of next finger
Ch23 2 – 2 – 2 + (to centre p of Ch14) 2 – 2 – 2 RW
R15 2 – 2 – 2 + (to Ch12 of next finger) 2 – 2 – 2 cl, RW
Ch24 2 – 2 + (to centre p of Ch13) 2 – 2 – 2 cl, RW
R16 2 – 2 – 2 + (to Ch11 of next finger0 2 – 2 – 2 CL, RW
Repeat from ‡ until all the fingers are filled in and joined, and then down the last side of the first finger, working Rings 1 through 9 and Chains 1 through 8, but in reverse order.
Without cutting the thread work the decorative chain along the bottom as follows:
2 – 2 – 2 – 2, lj to space created by first 3ds of Ch20 of first finger
2 – 2 – 2 – 2, lj to space created by second 3ds of same chain
2 – 2 – 2 – 2, lj to same join of Chains 1 and 19 between two fingers
Continue all the way along the bottom edge joining last chain to tiny space
at starting point. Cut and tie ends and dab knot with glue.
To make up:
1. Steam press tatting.
2. Put a good film of glue on the underside where the fill-in row joins together.
3. Place the tatting onto the fan spines and press each one firmly. Wait until the glue
has set enough before attaching the ends.
4. Glue each end of the tatting to the end spines, one facing up and one facing down.
5. Let the glue dry completely before folding.
6. Fold the fan carefully, making sure the tatting folds in the right direction. Leave in the folded position for at least 24 hours. The longer you can leave it the better it is as this encourages the tatting to fold easily through “memory” when closed.
Stargazer Lily by Linda Davies
Permission by Linda Davies
Materials:
Mercerised crochet cotton size 20 in two colours of your choice, i.e. light pink and dark
pink, lilac and purple, orange and yellow.
30 gauge white paper cover wire
20 gauge green paper covered wire
Lily stamens.
Green florists tape
Flexible craft glue
The wires,stamens and tape are readily available from sugarcraft shops.
Method: Petal
All rings have 3ds between picots.
Wind shuttle with one colour for rings and use a ball of the other colour for chains.
Following the chart start with a clover leaf of:-
R 3 – 3 – 3 – 3 cl.
R 3 + 3 – 3 – 3 – 3 – 3 cl.
R 3 + 3 – 3 – 3 cl. RW
Ch 5 RW
R 3 + 3 – 3 – 3 – 3 cl. RW
Ch 4 – 4 RW
R 3 + 3 – 3 – 3 – 3 cl. RW
Ch 4 – 4 RW
R 3 + 3 – 3 – 3 – 3 – 3 cl. RW
Ch 5 – 5 RW
R 3 + 3 – 3 – 3 – 3 – 3 cl. RW
Ch 5 – 5 RW
R 3 + 3 – 3 – 3 – 3 cl. RW
Ch 4 – 4 RW
R 3 + 3 – 3 – 3 – 3 cl. RW
Ch 4 – 4 RW
R 3 + 3 – 3 – 3 cl. RW
Ch 5 RW
R 3 – 3 – 3 – 3 cl. RW
Ch 5 – 5 1ds without flipping, 5 + 5
J to base of las r. RW
R 3 – 3 – 3 – 3 cl. RW
Ch 5 RW
R 3 + 3 – 3 – 3 cl. RW
Ch 4 + 4 RW
R 3 + 3 – 3 – 3 – 3 cl. RW
Ch 4 + 4 RW
R 3 + 3 – 3 – 3 – 3 cl. RW
Ch 5 – 5 RW
R 3 + 3 – 3 – 3 – 3 – 3 cl. RW
Ch 5 – 5 RW
R 3 + 3 – 3 – 3 – 3 – 3 cl. RW
Ch 4 + 4 RW
R 3 + 3 – 3 – 3 – 3 cl. RW
Ch 4 + 4 RW
R 3 + 3 – 3 – 3 + 3 cl. RW
Ch 5 j to starting point.
Stages showing the development of the lily petal. The size of the chains with the size of the rings causes the petal to curve naturally. A little spot of glue on each join of the chains is enough to firmly secure the wire.
Stamens are taped to the thicker green wire.
To Make Up:
1. Make 6 tatted petals.
2. Cut 1, 20 gauge green wire 15cm long and using green florists tape, tape 4 lily stamens to
one end.
3. Cut 6, 30 gauge white wires 10cm long.
4. Glue one white wire to the back of each petal and leave to dry. When dry curve into a natural
shape.
5. Group 3 wired petals around the stamens (where the stamens join the wire) and tape
securely.
6. Group the other 3 petals around the first 3 petals (between them) so that all petals can be seen.
Completed flower – note the overlapping petals to produce a natural shape.
Rosette Doily by Linda Davies
Permission given by Linda Davies
Abbreviations:
Chain (Ch)
Close (Cl)
Do Not Reverse Work (DNRW)
Double Stitch (DS)
Join (+ or j)
Long Picot Leaving 1/2 inch space (LP)
Picot ( – or p)
Reverse Work (RW)
Ring (R)
Split Chain (SC)
Split Ring (SR)
Materials:
One ball tatting cotton size 40, 2 shuttles
Method:
Wind both shuttles with the continuous thread method (CTM). To do this, firstly wind one shuttle and then (without cutting) pull off several yards of thread from the ball and then cut. Wind this excess thread onto your second shuttle.
R1: (Shuttle 1, Centre ring) 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2. Cl. DNRW and still using shuttle 1
Round one
R2: SR leave a small space to depth of other picots 2 – 2 – 2 / 2 – 2 – 2 cl. RW
Ch1: (Shuttle 2) 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 RW
R3: 2 – 2 – 2 + (j to first free p on R1) 2 – 2 – 2 cl. RW
Ch2: As Ch1 RW
R4: As R3 RW
Continue round until 6 rings have been made, RW
Ch6: SC 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 / 2- 2 RW
Round two
R1: SR small space, 2 – 2 – 2 / 2 – 2 – 2 cl. RW
Ch1: 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 RW
R2: 2 – 2 – 2 + (miss 1 p on Ch1 of round 1 and j to next p) 2 – 2 – 2 cl. RW
Ch2: As Ch1 RW
R3: 2 – 2 – 2 + (miss 1 p on Ch2 of round 1 and j to next p) 2 – 2 – 2 cl. RW
Ch3: As Ch1 RW
R4: 2 – 2 – 2 + (miss 1 p on Ch3 of round 1 and j to next p) 2 – 2 – 2 cl. RW
Ch4: As Ch1 RW
R5: 2 – 2 – 2 + (miss 1 p on Ch 1 of round 1 and j to next p) 2 – 2 – 2 cl. RW
Continue all round making the last chain a split chain as follows:
Ch18: SC 2 – 2 – 2 -2 / 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 RW
Round three
R1: SR small space, 2 – 2 – 2 / 2 – 2 – 2 cl. RW
Ch1: 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 RW
R2: 2 – 2 – 2 + (j to centre p on Ch1 of round 2) 2 – 2 – 2 cl. RW
Ch2: as Ch1 RW
R2: 2 – 2 – 2 + (j to centre p on Ch2 of round 2) 2 – 2 – 2 cl. RW
Continue all round making the last chain a split chain as follows:
Ch18: SC 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 / 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 RW
Round four
R1: SR small space 2 – 2 – 2 / 2 – 2 – 2 cl. RW
Ch1: 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 RW
R2: 2 – 2 – 2 + (j to centre p on Ch1 of round 3) 2 – 2 – 2 cl. RW
Ch2: As Ch1 RW
R2: 2 – 2 – 2 + (j to centre p on Ch2 of round 3) 2 – 2 – 2 cl. RW
Continue all round making the last chain a split chain as follows:
Ch18: SC 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 / 2 – 2 – 2 RW
Round five
R1: SR small space 2 – 2 – 2 / 2 – 2 – 2 cl. RW
Ch1: 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 RW
R2: 2 – 2 – 2 + (miss 2 p on Ch1 of round 4 and j to next p) 2 – 2 – 2 cl. RW
Ch2: As Ch1 RW
R3: 2 – 2 – 2 + (miss 3 p on Ch1 of round 4 and j to next p) 2 – 2 – 2 cl. RW
Ch3: As Ch1 RW
R4: 2 – 2 – 2 + (miss 2 p on Ch2 of round 4 and j to next p) 2 – 2 – 2 cl. RW
Continue all round making the last chain a split chain as follows:
Ch36: 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 / 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 RW
Round six
SR: small space 2 – 2 – 2 / 2 – 2 – 2 cl. RW
Ch1: 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 RW
R2: 2 – 2 – 2 + (j to centre p on Ch1 of round 5) 2 – 2 – 2 cl. RW
Ch2: As Ch1 RW
R3: 2 – 2 – 2 + (j to centre p on Ch2 of round 5) 2 – 2 – 2 cl. RW
Continue all round joining last chain to base of R1. Tie and sew in ends neatly on wrong side.
Round seven
Wind one shuttle and do not cut from ball or wind both shuttles with CTM.
R1: 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 cl. RW
Ch1: 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 + (with right side of work of facing j to centre p on any chain of round 6) 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 DNRW
*R2: 2 – 2 – 2 lp 2 – 2 – 2 cl. RW
Ch2: 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 + (j to 3rd p of R1) 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 RW
R3: 2 – 2 – 2 + (j to lp of R2) 2 – 2 – 2 cl. RW
R4: As R3 RW
Ch4: As Ch3 RW
R5: As R3 RW
Ch5: As Ch3 RW
R6: As R3 DNRW
Ch6: 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 + (j to centre p on next ch of round 6) 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 RW
R7: 2 – 2 – 2 + (j to centre p of Ch 5) 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 cl. RW
Ch7: 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 + (j to centre p on next chain of round 6) 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 DNRW
Repeat from * all the way round. Join the second to last chain to corresponding picot on R1 and join the last chain to the base of R1.
Tie and sew in ends neatly on wrong side.
Rosette Doily by Linda Davies
Permission granted from Linda Davies
Abbreviations:
Chain (Ch)
Continuous Thread Method (CTM)
Join (J)
Lock Join (LJ)
Repeat (Rep)
Ring (R)
Split Ring (SR)
Materials:
Tatting cotton size 40 in the colour of your choice. 2 shuttles
Finished coaster measures approximately 5 inches by 3 inches.
Wind both shuttles with CTM
Round 1
R1: SR 5—5 / – 5—5 cl
Rep R1 until 9 SRs have been made, RW
Round 2
*Ch1: 5—5, RW
R1: 5 + (j to p of last SR) 5, cl, RW
Rep from * until 9 rings and chains have been made, joining each small ring to a SR.
Ch10: 5—5 + (lj to centre p of first SR) 5—5, RW
Rep down the second side making the last ch a split chain of 5 / 5, DNRW
Round 3
Ch1: 7—7, lj to next free p on round 2.
Rep Ch1 all round making the last chain a split chain of 7 / 7, DNRW
Round 4
Ch1: 9—9, lj to next free p on round 3.
Rep Ch1 all round making the last chain a split chain of 9 / 9, RW
Round 5
R1: SR 5 / 5, RW
*Ch1: 2—2—2—2—2—2—2—2—2—2—2—2 (11p), RW
R2: 5 + (j to next free p on round 4) 5, cl, RW
Rep from * all round joining last chain to junction of R1 and Ch1.
Tie, cut and neaten ends.
Tulips by Linda Davies
Permission granted from Linda Davies
Materials:
Mercerized crochet cotton No.20 (any color)
Tatting shuttle
Wire: 33 and 24 gauge wire
Yellow stamens
Flexible craft glue
Green florists tape
Starry Snowflakes by Linda S. Davies Copyright 2014
Permission granted from Linda Davies
Hearts and Diamonds
Copyright 2016 Laura Evans
Supplies
Tatting Thread (Size 20)
Tatting Needle (Size 7)
Crochet Hook (Size 10)
Needle Threader
Scissors (small embroidery)
Picot Gauge: 1/4″ (4.76mm), < 1/8″ (3mm)
Abbreviation Key
Ch = Chain
Cl = Close
DNRW = Do Not Reverse Work
DS = Double Stitch(es)
J = Join
MP = Mock Picot
P = Picot
RODS = Reverse Order of Double Stitches
RW = Reverse Work
R = Ring
Rtt = Rotate Work
TW = Turn Work
VSP = Very Small Picot (< 1/8″)
Finished size:
Height: 1″ (2.54cm)
Length: 7″ (17.8cm) (Add thread to lengthen)
Note:
All picots = 1/4″ except where noted
When you want to finish, stop at the [End Here] instruction.
Needle thread 45″ (1.14M)
Tail End = 20″ (50.8cm)
Loop = 25″ (63.5cm)
R: 5 ds, p, 5 ds, p, 5 ds, p, 5 ds. Cl. TW.
Ch(RODS): 5 ds, p, 4 ds, p, 4 ds, p, 4 ds, p, 5 ds. Cl. DNRW.
*Ch (RODS): p (j. to center p. of previous R), 5 ds. Cl. TW.
R: 6 ds, p, 6 ds. Cl. RW.
Ch (RODS): 5 ds. Cl. DNRW.
p (VSP: mock picot made with lock stitch), 5 ds, p (j. to last p. of previous Ch), 4 ds,
p, 4 ds, p, 4 ds, p, 5 ds. Cl. RW.
R: 5 ds, p, 5 ds, p (j. to MP of previous Ch), 5 ds, p, 5 ds. Cl. Rtt. [End Here]
R: 5 ds, p (j. to last p. of previous R), 5 ds, p, 5 ds, p, 5 ds. Cl. Rtt.
R: 5 ds, p (j. to last p. of previous R), 5 ds, p, 5 ds, p, 5 ds. Cl. RW.
Ch (RODS): 5 ds, p (j. to last p. of previous Ch), 4 ds., p, 4 ds, p, 4 ds, p, 5 ds. Cl. Rtt.*
Repeat from * to * for desired length.
Cut and tie tail ends. Or finish in your preferred manner.
Diagram
Start at “A”
First Repeat at “C1”
Easy Practice Pattern
Beginner Needle Tatting Pattern
Copyright 2016 Laura Evans
Supplies
TattingThread (Size 20)
Tatting Needle (Size 7)
Crochet Hook (Size 10)
Picot Gauge: ¼” (4.76mm)
1/8″ (3.18mm)
Needle Threader
Scissors (small embroidery)
Abbreviation Key
Ch = Chain
Cl = Close
DS = Double Stitch(es)
J / + = Join
P = Picot
R = Ring
RODS = Reverse Order of Double Stitches
RW = Reverse Work (to opposite side–up / down
motion of oven door)
Needle thread = 30″ (76.2 cm)
Tail end = 14″ (35.56cm)
Loop = 16ʺ (40.64cm)
Finished Size:
Height: 1/2″ (1.27cm)
Length: 5″ (12.7cm)
Add thread to lengthen.
R: 3 ds, p , 3 ds, p, 3ds, p, 3 ds. Cl. RW. (All R. picots = 1/4″)
Ch (RODS): 4 ds, p, 4 ds. Cl. RW. (All Ch. picots = 1/8″)
*R: 3 ds, + (j. to last p. of previous R) , 3 ds, p, 3ds, p, 3 ds. Cl. RW.
(All R. picots = 1/4″)
Ch (RODS): 4 ds, p, 4 ds. Cl. RW.*
(All Ch. picots = 1/8″)
Repeat from * to * for desired length.
Cut and Tie
Leave 3″ (7.62cm) tails of ball and needle thread before cutting. Insert crochet hook (backside to front side) after closure of last chain and before closure of first ring. Pull, with a crochet hook, 3″ tail to the backside of lace. Tie in a square knot. Trim tails.
Or hide tails using your favorite method.
Diagram
Start at “A”
First repeat at “A1”